Sunken Gardens – Old Florida Is Alive and Well

By Gerry Barker

On the wall of my study is a large, 4 by 5-foot historical map of “Old Florida.” Our granddaughter, Cate, who loves maps, once told us after seeing it, “She wanted to go to Old Florida.” While we don’t have a time machine, you can, in a sense, have that experience.

Nothing defined “Old Florida” more than its roadside attractions: Reptile farms, alligator wrestling, mermaid shows — most are long gone. But one attraction that is still going strong after almost a hundred years is Sunken Gardens in St. Petersburg. We were there on American Cruise Lines’ 8-Day Florida Gulf Coast & Keys cruise, on their newest small ship, American Legend.

Photos courtesy of Sunken Gardens

The story behind the Sunken Gardens begins in the early 1900s, when George Turner Sr. bought four acres of land for $600. A plumber and avid gardener, over the years he transformed what had been a sinkhole and pond into a beautiful landscape of tropical foliage, water features and flowers.

In the early 1930s, he his wife, Eula, saw the commercial appeal of their gardening hobby and started charging 15 cents for tours. As its popularity grew, it was expanded and played host to weddings, beauty contests and fashion shows. The Turner sons took over operations after World War II and added a flock of flamingos in 1955, and later, exotic birds, monkeys, penguins and other animals.

Our volunteer docent told us once upon a time, when the Gardens was looking for new ways to draw guests, visitors could assemble in their amphitheater for that most classic Florida activity of all — alligator wrestling.

But by the late 70s, new highways bypassed many Old Florida attractions, and the Turner grandsons put the Gardens up for sale. That’s when the St. Petersburg community joined together to have the Gardens designated a protected Local Historic Landmark, eventually voting for a one-time tax increase that saved it for posterity. Today, operated by the city and volunteers, it hosts 200,000 visitors a year.

The historic sign that still marks the entrance was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1999. Our docent led us on a guided tour, detailing both the history and variety of plants in the Gardens.

As you wander along the pathways amid lush tropical plants, towering palms of every variety and magnificent oaks, some highlights of your visit include:

— A giant oak in the Oak Pavilion that served as shade for the Turners’ home, estimated to be over 150 years old.

— The flamingo habitat. Watch these graceful, long-legged birds — a Florida icon — as they preen, wade into water and fluff their wings.

— The Gardens also have macaws. In fact, our tour was greeted by a volunteer carrying one of the colorful birds perched on a stick.

— The Growing Stone. There’s a sign that notes: “This fossilized limestone rock (was) originally found in the center of the sinkhole lake” that formed Sunken Gardens. According to legend, “He who sits upon the ancient stone shall be granted tranquility, inner harmony and the talent to make things grow.” Sitting on the stone, it says, is required for Gardens employees on the first day on the job. And yes, Pam and I took a turn as well — who can’t use more tranquility?

— The arch bridge over a koi pond. No matter if they’re hungry or not, I’ve never known koi not to churn the water if food is present.

— There’s also a butterfly garden, orchid arbor, succulent garden and a rainbow eucalyptus, as well as a History Center.

All in all, it’s comforting to think you can still find Old Florida somewhere else than a map. Learn more about Sunken Gardens on their website.